Sunday, December 6, 2009

Pics from the past...

Have a couple minutes to upload some oldies....

In order: Team picture (l to r: Gabe, Cam, Izzie, Brooke, Skye, Ash, Dougie, NZ Nick, me and Andy) not sure when but I think around Thanksgiving; Thailand and Laos border directions; bowling in Luang Prabang; river bars in Vang Vien; flower at the Royal Palace in Bangkok















And then there were four and Laos with a capital Vientiane

In order: Skye and Gabe pondering a pool shot at Q Bar; where are we again?; nighttime fountain in Vientiane; trying to not scratch at Q Bar (with Curtis in the background); Curtis and I on back of tuk-tuk coming back from the river; Brooke and Skye sharing a bucket at Bar III on the river (why Bar III? it is the third bar downstream and the farthest we made tubing the entire trip); Bar III with Bar II's zip line infrastructure in the background.




































This morning we departed Vang Vien to travel by mini-bus to Vientiane and also had to part ways with Gabe as he is heading to Bangkok via bus with Curtis and Michelle. Gabe has been a great travel mate and friend for the past two months and this afternoon seemed so strange as the first time since mid-September Gabe was not near.

After we all said our goodbyes to Gabe, Curtis and Michelle we boarded our ultra-cramped and ultra-old mini-bus - 12 people in a space for maybe a mom and three kids. No air conditioning, four hours, no problem.

The drive was more or less non-eventful (a very good thing) and we arrived at the Laos capital city of Vientiane - the only capital city on the planet without a KFC or McDonalds (as we were told by an Oz ex-pat at dinner tonight). Vientiane is hosting the SEA (southeast Asia) Games this month and the city is decorated in Laos flags and team buses are escorted throughout our neighborhood via police escort. The main road through town actually has a police man on EVERY block to stop traffic when the buses drive through to the National Stadium and sports complex. If we are ambitious, tomorrow we will watch live sports.

Laos' time as a French colony has again left this town with a very French feel. Lots of cafes and bakeries and none of the raucous bars that had been the staple of Vang Vien.

Yesterday was our last day with Gabe, Curtis and Michelle so we tubed the length of Vang Vien's Nam Song (then handed over our tubes to the local Laos kids that jumped on our little rafts as stow-aways), lunched and then tuk-tuked back up river to attend an afternoon at the river bars. Death swings were ridden (the three story trapeze swing over the river), zip lines were rode and lots of good times were had. After dinner, a night out on the town that featured dancing in flourescent orange life jackets and dodging people carrying AK-47s patrolling the streets we all miraculously made it back home to Nine Noi's safe and sound.
Tomorrow, NZ Nick, Skye, Brooke and I will tour the town on bicycles and then Brooke and I head to Cambodia's capital city of Phnom Penh via a 22 hour (TWENTY-TWO!!!) bus ride and NZ Nick and Skye will fly to Hanoi.
Please wish me luck on the bus and that I do not spend eight hours with a chicken on my head and a goat on my lap.

Friday, December 4, 2009

Pics from the last couple days....

In order: Night market feast in Luang Prabang; drive to the cave in Vang Vieng; traffic jam on way to Vang Vieng cave; sunset on the Mekong in Luang Prabang with ME!; sunset on the Mekong in Luang Prabang





And then there were five, the way to Vang Vieng and tubing in the Nam Song

In order: Scooting around Vang Vien (l to r Curtis, Brooke, Gabe, Skye, NZ Nick); reclining Buddha in the Tham Poukham cave; Tham Poukham cave entrance; sunset along the Nam Song;
providing alms to the monks in Luang Prabang.





We have been here in Vang Vieng for the past three days but let me press the rewind and tell how we got here....

Our second to last night in Luang Prabang we bowled. But prior to bowling we sunsetted. The sunsets along the Mekong are astonishing with the sun dipping behind jungle limestone peaks and reflecting off the river - better than a postcard. All bars in Luang Prabang close at 11:30PM for a midnight curfew (so the townfolk can give alms to the monks at 6AM) except one place - the bowling alley. So we bowled! Pretty nice place for the middle of nowhere and as the only establishment serving alcohol pass 11:30, it was PACKED - with eager if not more drunken - bowlers. We played two games with the ten of us and I managed to win both but the second game was neck and neck with Gabe until the last frame. Then bowling turned into tackle bowling and we left.

Our last full day in Luang Prabang saw the departure of Ash, Izzie, Dougie, Andy and Cam to Hanoi and Vietnam adventures. The team is a much more manageable five people but we were sorry to say goodbye and wished them well on their travels. We went to bed early the final night - after carousing the night markets for trinkets for the umpteenth time and dining at a nice side street buffet of vegetarian Laos cuisine - so we could give alms to the monks in the early the next morning.

We awoke t0 a surprisingly cold 5:30AM and made out way into the town main street where the monks make the rounds for their daily alms. This apparently is the only way the monks receive food and the whole town turns out for this daily event (and plenty of tourists). After taking our spots on the sidewalk (looked more like waiting for the Rose Parade to stroll by), four tuk-tuks full of Japanese tourists unloaded practically on top of us and we were immediately the center of their photography. There were at least 10-15 people snapping pictures like this was the last opportunity for a photo - some even came to within one foot with their giant lens to my face to snap a photo. We packed up and went back to our guesthouse were we sat alone on the street with the local elderly ladies and gave our alms to the hundreds of orange clothed monks parading through....

We mini-bussed from Luan Prabang to Vang Vien or more like torture-bussed - picture an average minivan an average soccer mom would drive and through in 12 full grown adults and all their luggage. Not very comfy especially for a tall person. After six hours we made town and settled into Nine Noi's Gusthouse. Noi is the man and nine is his lucky number and his son is named Jimi Hendrix - no joke.

This town is built only for tubing and drinking - both are taking to extremes. One has to rent a tube from the town co-op to actually tube down the river - almost a tube mafia that charges an astounding 50,000 kip ($5.50) for a days tubing and will try to steal your deposit upon return. But we went around town and inquired about purchasing our own tubes - liken this to purchasing drugs across the street from a police station. After many inquiries Gabe found the black market of tubers on the other side of town where we all purchased inflatable children tubes - mine is pink and cost only 30,000 kip.

Along the Nam Song river, upstream from town amid a valley of limestone peaks similar to that of the Grand Tetons, lies a meandering river with crazy bars, huge trapeze like swings from the bars into the river, zip lines that sent people flying into the river, waterslides and bar promoters throwing ropes to tubers to pull them into bars. And somewhere along the permanent marker was brought out to draw all over everyone. We spent a full day on the river and managed to only tube about 100 yards to three bars - this might have been the funnest day of the trip. We will return tomorrow and post pictures of the craziness soon.

Today we, along with new friends Curtis and his girlfriend from Oz, rented motorscooters and took a journey about 7KM away to the Tham Poukam cave and blue swimming lagoon. The drive through the country side was something of a Discovery Channel documentary through jagged limestome peaks, jungles, ricefields and tiny foot bridge river crossings.

Tomorrow, tubing.

Monday, November 30, 2009

More pics...

In order: monks, monks and monks walking the Mekong; Mekong on the slow-trip boat; elephant statue at temple Wat Xieng Thong in Luang Prabang; NZ Nick's birthday dinner in Pak Beng (L to R - Andy, Cam, Izzie, NZ Nick, Skye, Dougie, Ash); streets of Luang Prabang



















Sunday, November 29, 2009

Luang Prabang (after the boat)....

In order: sunset on the Mekong; another slow-boat that lacks the passengers ours held; I'm on a boat ya'll;
our little area of luxury (before the sunroof opened and the locals sitting on my feet and lap left); villagers from a stop selling Lao-beer and the lady in the center was selling some sort of dead cat (or endangered baby tiger) that no one bought (thankfully)














Made it safe and sound down the Mekong to Luang Prabang yesterday afternoon. The slow-boat was an adventure. We left the safety of Thailand early Saturday morning via longboat to cross the Mekong into Laos and go through customs - let's just say they don't run a very tight ship. What a hassle. The customs agent held up one passport at a time and all 100 people in line had to view the passport to determine if said passport was theirs. We (ingenious Americans) began calling peoples first name and country to expedite the process.

The slow-boat was about what you'd expect coming from one of the poorest nations on Earth. Open air engine room where one can easily fall into the engine? Check. Live chickens in corral on the bow? Check. Overfilled capacity where people are sitting on the floor? Check.

However the slow-boat made up from lack of comfort for an amazing view and ride. We found that hanging out the side with our feet in the water with a cold Lao-beer was the best spot on the boat - and locals from each village stop were happy to accommodate our patronage shouting "caaaooooldddd Lao-beeeee" and running around the boat.
The first night our boat stopped just after dark at a little town I hope none of you ever have to visit called Pak Beng. The only purpose of this town is for an overnight stop on the slow-boats and as soon as the boat stopped the locals were upon us to sell accommodation for the evening (and try to steal unsuspecting peoples bags). The reason I note the darkness is the boat stops at the base of a steep hill were the town sits midway up the hill - I was unfortunate enough to witness an older man fall backwards down the hill and into the water due to the weight of his backpack (thankfully I had my rollers engaged and rolled the hill) - he was alright.
We were ushered into a motel that was recommended in Chiang Kong that was only about $4 per night and hosted NZ Nicks birthday party in their restaurant and provided a stereo to play my iPod for the event. We had a good time.
The next morning awoke to a very misty and cold Mekong and a shockingly even smaller slow-boat to Luang Prabang. We arrived 30 minutes before scheduled departure and the boat was overflowing with people already. Our section ended up being choice as the roof retracted and we had a great open air mini-deck to play Uno, read and relax for the seven hour ride.
Luang Prabang is a great town - very relaxed with a UNESCO designation and heavily French influenced architecture provides a welcome relief from the travel of the past few days. Laos temples and monks dot the town and provide a stark contrast to what the French have left.
Tomorrow we travel via motoscooter to local waterfalls and caves....

Friday, November 27, 2009

Another blog of the trip....

This is the address for Gabe's blog:

gabelucy.blogspot.com

Gabe and I have been traveling together since the first days in Bali - enjoy....